Dan Carmody, president of Eastern Market

We’ve excerpted a few of our favorite quotes from the article, especially the piece that shares how we are aiding in Eastern Market’s efforts, but please make sure to read the full story here.

{The food hub helps small farmers grow the size and yield of their farms and create other viable sales outlets that aren’t community supportive agriculture (CSA), a farmer’s market, or direct sales to restaurants because “farmers have to balance their time between selling food and growing it,” Carmody says. “It’s the next step in the devolution of a food system into a stronger regional system, encouraging smaller growers.”}

{Carmody and his staff have increased the profile of local and regional growers supplying the market, says Debbie Tropp, branch chief of the Agricultural Marketing Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which is conducting a two-year study of Eastern Market. “They’re doing their level best to try to revitalize the regional food system in a way that may not have happened prior.”

Eastern Market is considered a “hybrid market,” where wholesale and retail activities occur, one of about 50 in the nation, according to James Barham, agricultural economist and head of a USDA interagency task force on regional food hubs. “Hardly any of these would be classified regional food hubs. Mainly, it’s a property manager who’s leasing space…. What Dan is doing is pretty remarkable. He could have set up as a property manager and leased space. Eastern Market would have continued to exist.”

Food hubs are a fairly new designation for comprehensive agricultural centers that provide a catalytic impact on the regional food system, says Barham. “Because of the strong relationship regional food hubs have with producers, and because of the demand for locally grown product, producers are scaling up their operations, they’re hiring more staff, they’re planting more crops, they’re switching practices from more conventional to more sustainably produced because there’s higher customer demand for that type of product.”

Eastern Market has established a virtual food hub to connect the region’s growers and buyers in an unprecedented way using Local Orb.it. “The buyer can go online and pick Eastern Market as their hub, see a variety of our growers, our specialty product vendors, and be able to order from these different types of growers on one purchase order,” says Christine Quane, wholesale market coordinator for Eastern Market. “That allows growers to tell their story, inventory their items and put their wholesale pricing [on display]. They pick their products, make their orders, and the two meet on a set day — saving time for both. By knowing the story behind the grower, they know where their food is coming from. They’ll know who the growers are and how they grow.”}

Read the full story here.

Mike Thorn believes in change.  He believes that small farmers can build sustainable businesses. He believes that restaurants and institutions will one day be able to source local food with ease.  And he believes it’s time for high-tech solutions to support the vibrant, local businesses that are bringing good food to our tables.

Mike joined Local Orbit as the lead programmer in May, and he hasn’t come up for air since.  From developing new features for our pilot hub sites to figuring out how to solve problems created by rural satellite internet connections, he’s been busy.  Mike’s work on our upcoming release will allow us to tailor Local Orbit’s tools to each region’s unique needs and support a variety of food distribution business models.  It will also provide rich production and distribution information to help everyone involved in the value chain with future planning.

Mike’s food values come from his deep family roots.  His father, a professor and doctor, cooked dinner for his family every night, inspired by the foods of his Thai and Chinese upbringing.  Local produce was always on the menu and still is today; he purchases at least 50% of his food from Farmer’s Markets and blows away dinner guests with his unbelievable lamb curry that takes 10 hours of hands on cooking to perfect.

Mike was majoring in Chemistry at Eastern Michigan University, but chose to jump into the fast and furious world of internet startups instead. Soon after, his first startup consulting company was awarded a major project for The Dow Chemical Company, lasting 9 years.  Mike’s role in this project was the primary software architect for their laboratory information management system.  His software was used to outsource millions of dollars of routine testing, enabling shorter hold times on inventory and freeing expensive internal resources to focus on product development and refinement.  Later, he helped implement a web-based data mining processor that used natural language processing to calculate performance metrics for Fortune 500 companies such as Disney and RCI.  Most recently, he designed a HIPPA-compliant architecture for an electronic medical record system start-up, Therapy Charts

Mike is excited to see his work help farmers grow stronger businesses.  In the long run, he sees himself making an even greater contribution by helping our users run their businesses more effectively with the robust, easy-to-use planning and marketing tools Local Orbit is developing.   His goal is to bring the resources and tools that create advantages for big agriculture and huge retail chains to 10-acre farms and 10-table restaurants alike.

(via Mark Bittman’s weekly New York Times food roundup.)

Tony Butler, Bread and Life’s executive director, talks about the Local Orbit partnership: “You don’t create community around problems,” said Mr. Butler, who hopes that clients on food stamps will eventually be able to shop from Local Orbit farmers at St. John’s. “You create community around shared projects.”

John Glebocki, Tony Butler and New York City Council Speaker Christine Quinn

The new way of connecting farmers with communities is gaining a lot of attention. Last week, fifth-generation farmer John Glebocki joined New York City Council Speaker Christine Quinn and Tony Butler to discuss food distribution issues in the region. John knows a thing or two about fresh produce with 70 acres of fertile land in the black dirt region of Orange County, NY. His Goshen farm supplies the same high quality vegetables to Goldman Sachs, white table cloth restaurants and food pantries across New York.Since October he has been offering his produce for sale to residents of the Bed-Stuy community.

This month Glebocki’s vegetables — known for exceptional flavor — became part of a great holiday meal – sourced entirely through Local Orbit and enjoyed by 2,000 Bed-Stuy families, including a humanly raised turkey, a half pound of organic fresh cranberries and a vegetable bag that includes three carrots, four potatoes, one butternut squash and two to three onions.

Almost a year ago, I heard Alice Waters speak to—and apparently hold in thrall—a packed hall at the tony Hotchkiss School in Lakeville, CT. I was certain that everyone, from students and faculty to farmers from Sheffield, MA to Millertonm, NY residents, heard her call to action. Charge the barricades! Go local! Boy, was I wrong.

Leaders of the food revolution: 17-year old Sam Levin of Project Sprout, Alice Waters and farmer Dominic Palumbo

The Alice Waters Story

Waters first learned about the importance of food in people’s lives while studying in Paris. Eating food together, she saw, “encouraged conversation and closeness.”

For Waters, food should be a “form of sustenance, not just fuel.” She brought that winning recipe to the opening of Chez Panisse in 1971. Her unstoppable search for great tasting, quality ingredients led her to forage for the best sources of cheese, fruits and vegetables, meat and fish in the Bay area. In the process she created a community of 85 sustainable producers that support and nourish her restaurant to this day.

The Siren Call of Cheap and Easy Food

Fast, cheap and easy may be how America eats but it’s an “illusion that degrades our health and our environment.”  While changing the food system may seem “like rerouting the Titanic,” Waters has her eye on a stimulus plan and a workforce that could transform agriculture and our health in a relative jiffy.

She’s focusing on the one in five Americans who are in school. Working through her foundation and a receptive Administration, Waters wants to create a curriculum and lunch program to show kids how to raise, prepare, cook, and share the food they eat during the day.

For students at Martin Luther King Middle school in Berkeley, their Edible Schoolyard is just part of their daily lives. Now thanks to students Sam Levin, Sarah Steadman and Natalie Akers, Monument High School in Great Barrington, MA also has its own organic, student-run garden, Project Sprout, which is inspiring others across the country.

Wondering whether or not to start your own food-garden? Then consider these two simple facts:  1) the White House garden cost all of $200 to start, and 2) during WWII more than 40% of the fruits and vegetables Americans consumed came from “victory gardens” planted in urban, suburban and rural communities.

Words Have Power

Waters kicked things off early on with a story about arugula. During the presidential campaign, Obama may or may not have said: ” ‘Anybody gone into Whole Foods lately and see what they charge for arugula?’ he asked. ‘I mean, they’re charging a lot of money for this stuff.’ ” Some political pundits even asked what’s wrong with iceberg lettuce. Waters’s take on this cable news tempest? “It’s amazing that it could be un-American to be able to distinguish between salad greens.”

To my amazement, while I was reveling in Waters’s stories and love of food, some students in the Hotchkiss audience were seething. It turns out that a lot of the junk food they loved had been ripped out over the last two years and replaced with food that was “good” for you. Alice Waters was not among friends that day. Instead, she could have had a bulls-eye painted on her chest. Finally, here was the person responsible for the degradation of “our junk-food supply.”

The Q&A period was tense. The first question from a student was typical: “Hey, I’m from New York and you want us to take up urban farming? Where are we going to do that? In Central Park.” It went on from there.

But the interesting thing is that, as distinct from the typical speaker who charms and then leaves, the Waters speech kept students talking for weeks. And it made me think that words have extraordinary power. Why should “foodie” be a pejorative term? What’s wrong with being enthusiastic about your food and the people who produce it?  Or eating arugula, for that matter? But in America “foodie” carries connotations of elitism, even to an audience of students whose annual tuition cost approaches the average American household income.

So how do we create a positive and productive conversation about food in America? Start by listening. Then talk, a little, as reasonably as you know how. And then hand a fresh, locally grown peach to your skeptical friend: It’s worth a thousand words.

Further Reading

Is Organic Food Just for Rich People?

]]> http://localorb.it/field-notes/2010/04/alice-waters-slow-food-and-school-nutrition/feed/ 1 http://localorb.it/field-notes/2010/01/oprah-food-101/ http://localorb.it/field-notes/2010/01/oprah-food-101/#comments Sun, 31 Jan 2010 18:32:06 +0000 Erika http://localorb.it/field-notes/?p=1186 The conversation about fixing our food system continues to move further into the mainstream.  Last week, Oprah did a great show on Food 101 with Michael Pollan on Food Rules, Alicia Silverstone on changing her diet (including a funny exchange on poop), and excerpts from Food, Inc.

[UPDATE 2/4/10 - looks like Harpo Productions took the videos off YouTube and are making the Food 101 show available on DVD.  A shame they won't allow this information to be distributed more freely, but at least they did produce great content.  You can get more info on the Oprah site.

Just wondering - do you think Food, Inc. will get a share of the revenue from DVD sales of this episode that include excerpts from the film?  Sure - they get great PR, but still..... ]

Here’s video from YouTube, in 5 parts. No additional commentary needed!

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

Last week I posted recipes for potato-leek-fennel soup, carrot and beet salad, and roasted pears.

This week’s recipes:

• roasted garlic and squash soup
• squash stuffed with wild rice
• spicy collards done 2 different ways

Roasted Garlic and Squash Soup

This is a rich, smooth soup that combines the sweetness of roasted squash with the spicy sharpness of roasted garlic.  I serve it with a dollop of cranberry sauce in each bowl.

Ingredients:

winter squash – 4 small, 3 medium or 2 large (delicata is my favorite)

10 cups veggie or chicken stock

1/4 cup olive oil

2-3 heads of garlic, cloves separated but not peeled

1 large yellow or white onion, chopped

3 celery stalks, chopped

2 medium carrots, chopped

2 bay leaves, salt and pepper

optional herbs: 4-5 sprigs fresh thyme or 3-4 fresh sage leaves (or 1-2 teaspoons dried)

optional – add a spoonful of whole cranberries (cooked with a little brown sugar) or your favorite cranberry sauce to each bowl of soup

Roasting the squash and garlic:

preheat the oven to 375 degrees

poke some holes into a whole squash with a sharp knife and roast, either on a baking sheet or directly on the oven rack; the squash is done when is done when it’s easily pierced with a knife; depending on the size and density of the squash, this can take from 45-90 minutes

put the garlic in a baking dish and toss with a little olive oil; roast with the squash, about 35-45 minutes – until it’s soft and easy to squeeze from the skin; set aside

when the squash is cooked, cut it open and let cool until you can handle it; then clean out the seeds and scoop the flesh off the skin

Cooking the soup:

in a large stock pot, saute the onion, carrots, celery and bay leaves in the rest of the olive oil on a medium-low heat,until the veggies are soft and the onions translucent.

add the squash to the pot, then squeeze the garlic it out of its skins and into the pot. (if you’re using thyme or sage, add it now.)

add the stock, season with salt, pepper, turn up the heat and cover until it comes to a gentle boil.

turn the heat down and simmer, covered, for 45-60 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Taste and add salt, if needed.

when you’re happy with the seasoning and the veggies are very tender, puree the soup with a stick blender or in a food processor.  I add a generous amount of black pepper to the pureed soup.

if it’s too thick add a little water or stock and simmer with the lid on for 20 minutes.   If it’s not thick enough, simmer without the lid, stirring occasionally, until it reduces.

serve it hot, with cranberries.  It also freezes well and tastes even better the next day.

Squash stuffed with Wild Rice

I made this the other day for guests, as a side with black cod, but generally it’s a main course.  It goes well with leafy greens like  kale sauteed in anchovies, garlic and red chili, or with the spicy collards recipe that follows.  I often cook the rice with chicken stock, which adds richness and depth, and I always make enough to last for a couple of days of lunches or dinners.

Ingredients:

small to medium winter squash – generally 1/2 squash per person

wild rice blend – about 1/3 cup per person depending on how many you’re serving.   (I generally use Lundberg’s, which I get in bulk at my food co-op, but you can create your own mix of wild rice, brown, basmati and red rices if your local shop has a bulk foods section)

2 parts stock or water to one part rice – use stock if you can for richer flavored rice (1 cup rice = 2 cups liquid)

1 cup dried cranberries or cherries (for 2 cups of rice)

1 cup toasted pine nuts (for 2 cups of rice)

1 medium yellow or white onion, chopped (for 2 cups rice)

3 stalks celery, diced (for 2 cups rice)

1 large carrot, diced (for 2 cups rice)

1/4 cup olive oil

2 teaspoons butter

4 tablespoons worcester sauce (more or less to taste)

5 sprigs fresh thyme (2 teaspoons dried)

salt and pepper

Preparation:

preheat the oven to 375 degrees

cut squash in half and clean out the seeds

fill a roasting pan with an inch of water and place the squash, cut side up on the pan; loosely cover with foil and put in the oven

put the rice, thyme and a teaspoon or two of salt into a stock pot or rice cooker;  cover with stock or water and cook (if using a stock pot, bring to a boil, covered, and then turn the heat down to simmer until the rice is cooked)

as the rice cooks: saute the onions on a low heat until they’re translucent; after the onions cook for about 10 minutes, add the carrots, bay leaves, garlic and salt; as the carrots soften, add the celery and thyme (use a pan that’s large enough stir in the cooked rice)

when the rice is cooked: mix the cranberries/cherries and pine nuts to the vegetables and turn up the heat to medium and saute for 5 minutes; add the rest of the olive oil and butter to the pan, and then stir in the cooked rice, mixing it well; add the worcester sauce, salt and pepper, tasting and adjusting the seasoning (I use a healthy amount of worcester, as it is absorbed by the rice)

when everything is mixed in well, turn the heat to simmer and cover the pan

when the squash is cooked, put the halves on individual plates and fill them with the rice

Spicy Collards

Ingredients:

1 lb collard greens, stripped from stems and chopped (serves 4 people)

3 cloves finely chopped garlic (or use a garlic press)

1-2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger

1 teaspoon cayenne (more or less, depending on how spicy you want it)

1 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

2-3 tablespoons olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

Steamed:

A quick, energy efficient option for these collards is to steam them while the rice is cooking (collards are the only green that does well when cooked for a long time).  I make grains in a rice cooker with a steamer insert; you can also use a steamer insert on top of a stock pot.  When the greens are done they’ll be soft and dark.

Mix the garlic, ginger, cayenne and cumin with the olive oil; as the garlic softens, add the ginger just to heat it up a bit.  Then add the steamed greens, spices, salt and pepper and toss together;  turn the heat off the pan and let it sit (covered) for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Simmered:

On a medium heat, saute the garlic in the olive oil for a few minutes; as it softens, add the spices and ginger, and then few tablespoons of water or stock.

After the water heats up, stir in the collards and add salt; cover the pot with a tightly-fitting lid and turn the heat down to low; simmer for 30-45 minutes, stirring every so often; there should always be a little liquid in the bottom of the pan – add more water if it starts to dry out.

When the collards are soft and dark, add pepper and salt as needed; remove from the pot with a slotted spoon, leaving the liquid in the pan.

A winter squash resource: recipetips.com has a great article with descriptions and photos of winter squash varieties and how to prepare them.  It even demonstrates this logical use for kitchen mallets, which I’d never considered before!

The Obama administration is raising awareness about healthy eating through the high profile White House Garden and new local food campaigns such as Know Your Farmer.  It’s a good start, but, as Emanuel notes, “lifestyle issues are hard for the government to address.”

Along these lines, Adam Corner proposes that psychology is the missing link in the climate change debate: …while the consensus may be growing on the need for changes in behaviour, we’re no closer to understanding how we’re going to do it. Attempting an unprecedented shift in human behaviour without the input of psychologists is like setting sail for a faraway land without the aid of nautical maps.

Excerpts from What’s Missing in the Marketplace:

Our political system is a lot more comfortable talking about health care than about health. We’ll pay enormous amounts of money to treat diabetics, but we don’t do much to change people’s diets to prevent diabetes. That’s a strange use of resources: Focusing on health-care coverage without doing more to address the factors, such as diet, that determine our health is a bit like buying fire insurance while ignoring the fact that you have a gas stove and a large fireplace in a wood cabin. A dry wood cabin.

…”My own view,” says Emanuel, “is we know there are large parts of health that are primarily best approached as a public-health issue and not as a doctor-patient issue. Nutrition, wellness, exercise and smoking, for instance. But lifestyle change is hard to accomplish. What smoking showed is it’s not a single thing. It changed from being socially acceptable and doctors would recommend it in the ’50s to being scorned and barred indoors.”

The smoking case is an interesting one. Emanuel brings it up repeatedly as one of the few examples where public-health advocates managed to change the culture around a previously unexamined act, which is exactly what they’re going to have to do with diet. “On smoking, there are a combination of things that had to happen,” he says. “We had to make smoking socially unacceptable. We took it outside the building. We raised taxes on it. It became linked to cancer.” But as he admits, “you can’t take eating outside the building.” Nor can you demonize it entirely. Certain products can be attacked, but in a world of organic Oreos and Splenda with added fiber, it won’t just be an uphill climb. It’ll be a climb with constantly changing footholds.

Moreover, as Emanuel says, lifestyle issues are hard for the government to address. They’re personal, for one thing. Whether it likes it or not, the government is fiscally invested in the way we eat because it pays for the consequences of a bad diet. But few feel comfortable with the government’s involving itself in the choices that lead to that bad diet.

…So where does that leave us? “You have to change the whole culture around this stuff,” Emanuel sighs. “That’s a complicated thing. It’s even more complicated than how to change the health-care system, if you can believe it.”

Klein piece via ethanagri4 on the Comfood listserve

Corner piece via the foodtimes

In our house, the fall harvest means a lot of cooking and freezing.  I’ve spent my spare time in the past few weeks turning great veggies into winter meals.

This week I’m going to share a few recipes I love that are healthy and easy to make.  Most important – the ingredients will be in season for another month or more.

Next week we’ll make roasted squash and garlic soup, squash stuffed with wild rice, and spicy collards done two different ways.

For today:

• potato-leek-fennel soup
• carrot and beet salad
• roasted pears

Potato, leek and fennel soup

Ingredients:

8 cups chicken or veggie stock

2 lbs potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1 inch pieces (I used fingerlings, but any potato you have will work; if the skins are thick you might want to peel them)

3 large leeks, cleaned, cut in half lengthwise, and then sliced (about 3 cups)

1 large fennel bulb, chopped  (2-3 cups – to taste)

Save the fennel leaves for garnish

1 medium yellow onion (you could substitute another leek)

3-6 cloves smashed garlic (to taste)

2 tablespoons butter (optional)

1/4 cup olive oil

2 bay leaves, sea salt & freshly ground pepper

Cooking

On a medium-low heat, in a large, heavy-bottomed stock pot, saute the onions, garlic and bay leaves in about half of the olive oil until they’re soft and translucent.

Add the leeks and fennel and continue to cook until they’re soft, stirring often.

Add the potatoes, the remaining olive oil, butter, 2-3 teaspoons of salt, a generous amount of black pepper.  Stir and coat the potatoes.  Just as the potatoes barely start to brown (5 minutes or so) add the stock and cover the pot.

Bring the stock to a low boil, then turn down the heat to simmer.  Cook for 60-90 minutes, stirring occasionally.

When the potatoes and vegetables are very soft, remove the bay leaves and puree the soup until it’s very smooth.  (I use a stick blender.  A food processor also works.)

Add more salt and pepper, as needed.  If the soup seems too thick, you can add a little water.  This is a matter of taste.  Let the soup cook on low for about 15 minutes, stirring, until ready.

Serve the soup with a sprinkle of chopped fennel leaves.  It goes well with any kind of salad – particularly the carrot and beet salad below.  And, like most soups, it tastes better the next day!

Carrot and Beet Salad

2 large beets

4 large carrots

1-2 cups cilantro or parsley, finely chopped  (optional, but really good – you can also use half parsley/half cilantro)

1 cup of olive oil

1/2 cup balsamic or apple cider vinegar

1/8 cup of brown sugar (more or less, to taste)

sea salt & freshly ground pepper

Preparation

Grate the beets and carrots into a large bowl, using a food processor or the large side of a hand grater.  Add parsley or cilantro, a tablespoon of salt, a generous sprinkling of pepper, and toss well.

Slowly add olive oil, mixing it in as you go.  You may need more, depending on how dry the carrots and beets are.  Add a little at a time, until the carrots and beets are lightly covered (not drenched) in the olive oil.  Then add the vinegar – you may use more or less, depending on your taste.  Mix it in as you go.  Add the sugar – again – taste as you add it.  This can be sweeter or more acidic, depending on your mood.  Dried black currants or raisins are a good addition if you like it sweeter.

You can eat the salad right away, but it gets better the more it sits.  Try to let it rest at room temperature for at least an hour, or keep in the fridge overnight.  It’s also nice served with hard boiled eggs on the side.

Roasted Pears

You can do this with one pear or a dozen, depending on how many people are coming to dinner.  It’s got a split personality, as cozy comfort food and dinner party.

I like Bosc and d’Anjou, but any type of pear is good for roasting.  Medium ripe is ideal, but a little softer also works.  We planted a Kieffer pear tree last summer, harvested the first dozen fruits a few weeks ago, and used this recipe.

Ingredients and Preparation

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cut 1 or more pears in half, removing the seeds, core and stems

Lay them face up in a baking dish or roasting pan (the sides of the pan should be higher than the pears)

Dab 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon butter in the center of each pear

Sprinkle with brown sugar or drizzle with honey

Optional: Sprinkle grated whole vanilla bean or a drop or two of vanilla extract on each pear.

Cover with foil and roast for 20 minutes, then remove the foil.

Cooking time will vary, depending on the size and ripeness of the fruit.  Plan on 40-60 minutes total, but check on them.  Riper and smaller pears will cook more quickly.

You want them to be soft, but firm enough to hold the butter and sugar juices.  Serve pears in individual bowls or plates.

Optional but really good – especially for guests: Gently warm some heavy cream and vanilla extract.  Drizzle cream on individual serving plates. Put pears on each plate and drizzle a bit more cream on top.

Serving size: A large pear will serve two people, a smaller pear will serve one.  A half cup of cream with a teaspoon of vanilla extract will be enough for 6-8 servings.

Check out our favorite cooking resources.